Friday, June 17, 2011

Monsoon Madness...Goodbye India!!


I promised you something on Shopping Malls...well look below...it's just  a cut out of something any where in the west...complete with KFC, Pizza Hut, Subway and $50 T shirts!! It sometimes does my head in...walking out of one of these and back into "real India" where the streets are crowded with the poor...
 
In late May and again last week...I went up North to Murshidabad for work...& met these little angels! Om Shanti Om!

 Then a couple weeks ago we went to Darjeeling...to escape the heat &see what everyone raves about...not a good time to go...all foggy...no views of the Himalayas..and not really sure what all the hype is about...
Some cool people but not a particularly clean city I am afraid...
 and Nicole got sick as did our friend Ann who came with us...
We tried for better weather/views in Sikkm...but to no avail (the local teenagers could have just rocked in from Brooklyn!)
So...goodbye to Darj...

 & back to Kolkata...
..where today the Monsoon has made it's true appearance and all the leaks in my flat are making themselves known!Is so nice to see rain and the temps have dropped at long last (still about 30C)
Has been a great 3 months in India...and next weekend I wing my way back to Dubai, connect with Nicole (on her way back from London) & carry on homeward bound. Looking forward to some cold weather, some salads & ice-cream! Hunting for a job, a flat, a car!! UGH!  We plan to be in NZ at least 6 months....the guy below seems to think that's funny...WATCH THIS SPACE!!!

Monday, May 16, 2011

Turning up the heat...

 So... a few weeks in to our time here in Kolkata (yes folks ...that's the new spelling for Calcutta!) & here are a few pictures and some stories/reflections to go with them... 

I must have been really sick in hospital as I have developed an interest in cricket! Ok...its 20 overs a side and all over and done with in about 4 hours ... and they market it really well...complete with blonde western bimbos as cheerleaders! Think about it...would you wanna strut your stuff in front of a mostly male Indian crowd?  The money must be pretty good I figure! Anyway... a couple weekends back we went to see the Kolkata Knight Riders thrash the Chennai Super Kings...quite disappointing as the Chennai team opened as batters and played poorly, Kolkata was doing great and then it rained and game finished early...Kolkata was still declared the winners tho...we celebrated with a great curry washed down with "Thums Up" the Indian equivalent of coke - but twice as sweet!
The Crowd was the size of Hamilton!
We are  now used to the constant noise and small living quarters & sadly now that it's pretty hot we escape to anywhere with air conditioning in the weekends and evenings too! That's our little place above
 
We live in this building in a lively noisy neighborhood ...the "fast food centre" makes me laugh every day!
Human pulled Rickshaws still exist here...


as do a million and one yellow cabs...

For many Kolkata dwellers life is tough and so much of it is lived on the street..there is little that is private...public space is just that...and it all happens right in front of you. I took a walk early Sunday morning and so many people were just sleeping on the sidewalk, on the back of a cart, on a bench. As the heat rose so did many of the people to take their bath...

or have a shave
Holy Cow Batman!!
and yes...it was Sunday but this aint the Baptists!!
I stumbled into a crazy flower market at the end of the Howrah Bridge...

and enjoyed a cup-a - char in a tiny terra cotta cup...
whilst the Gods oversaw more flower sales!
As I made my way home a group of kids waved hello to me and proudly showed me their armless pink doll and the ubiquitous request of "photo, photo" was soon made. They laughed as they saw themselves in the playback of the camera and carried on happily playing outside their one room "home" made from plastic sheeting as their Mother tried to put together something for them to eat that day
You cant come to India without being challenged about how much I personally own, how many choices I have and how easy that is to take for granted. I have so many times been humbled by the genuine smiles and warmth shown by people here who have every reason to not be happy but are. It seems to be a choice, despite the little material possessions and comforts around. It is a challenge to me.

This last shot ...well... a picture paints a 1000 words...


In the next blog:
More Kolkata pics including the malls!
Going to Darjeeling
Nicole has a real blue tooth! 

Monday, April 25, 2011

INDIAN HOSPITALS!

Did I mention that we’ve both had “Delhi Belly”? Mmm… and that Nicole had thrown up on the Taj Mahal?
Okay…so not wanting to be outdone by her I made sure I trumped her big time! (NB: I do not have a spleen, so any sign of fever has to be taken seriously and treated quickly as has the potential to overwhelm (i.e kill) me rather quickly if not treated asap)

Here’s a recipe for some fun:

  • Take one train heading to Kolkata from Delhi, Thursday night.
  • Stir in slowly two Delhi-bellied travellers to the train.
  • Turn up heat and allow train to travel 5 hours in a South- East direction
  • During this time allow male passenger to feel progressively worse with aches and chills, develop a fever of 39.4 C & throw up entire contents of days food into his towel whilst lying on top bunk of compartment
  • Allow wife of said male traveller to get quite concerned (after dealing with said towel!!)
  • Simmer some questions for Indian Railways re whether a doctor is on board
  • Whilst simmering try and get fluids into male traveller
  • Listen for Indian Railways request for next station ahead to get a doctor to come to train
  • At next station Kanpur (2 hours after vomiting) allow doctor to advise to get off the train and get to hospital
  • Get down from train, attempt to vomit, have episode of diarrhoea, space out and get wheel-chaired to station superintendent (with wife in tow hauling 25 kgs of luggage!)
  • Get rickshaw to “nearby” hospital and allow ½ hour to be stuck in traffic jam along the way
  • Go to E.R, get admitted to hospital ward by 2 a.m. & sleep for 4 hours until the first cleaner appears for the day (make sure room is cleaned at least 4 more times that day!)
  • Enjoy 2 days of enforced rest & I.V antibiotics mixed in with good dose of Indian T.V, inquisitive staff, good care and professionalism
  • Discharge patient after 2 nights, allowing half of ward staff to come outside the hospital and make sure we are safely inserted into rickshaw on way to next adventure!
  • Smile and wave goodbyes!
  • Get on bus to Lucknow then plane to Kolkata, much improved.
  • Continue cocktail of antibiotics for next 10 days

So…not quite the planned travel mode of getting to Kolkata…but we have arrived! The experience of an Indian hospital was very good (it was a private one and our travel insurance will be getting the bill!). The staff had never had a foreigner in their ward before and were all so friendly and helpful – from the cleaners & gophers to the nurses and doctors. I am sure there was some degree of fascination that meant my room door was opened a little more than others!

Viswasi & Soumya with recovered said male traveler!

Now in Kolkata…busy, hot, bustling with people and noise EVERYWHERE. We have a teeny weeny one room wide “flat” right in the thick of the neighbourhood where we will work & it will take some time to get used to having people outside both windows washing, singing, talking, hoicking 24/7!!! Nicole in the kitchen last night below:

Grateful and happy to be here!

M & N


Thursday, April 21, 2011

Digging Delhi!

Greetings from Delightful Delhi!!


Probably not a term you have heard Delhi described as before ... but it really is!! I (Marty) are playing tour-guide this holiday seeing as India is one of my favorite countries and I have been here several times before. So...arriving in Delhi on Sunday...flying the 3 + hr flight from Cochin on one of India's budget airlines - Spicejet - I headed to my old haunt called from my "budget backpacker from hell" days - Pahar Ganj. It is basically a long strip of budget hostels and hotels, interspersed with Kashmiri craft shops, cafes, clothing shops, cows, dogs, touts and noise galore! Nicole has really taken a liking to Dehi - despite having to work most of the days we've been here...I drag her out in the early evening to explore what we can..but she definitely wants to come back!



Yesterday we did a 13 hour return journey to the Taj Mahal on some of the slowest "super fast" trains known to mankind! This was my 4th visit to the Taj, Nicole's 1st however Delhi Belly had definitely gripped Nicole as the day progressed and we will now always remember this great monument of love (a Masouleum for Mumtaz Mahal) for the offering Nicole made on one of the side mosques - the contents of her stomach!! No respect for the dead!!

Nicole "recovering"!



We saw the beginnings of the sun setting before making a mad dash back to the train station and buying ticket/finding train and getting to it all in a blur...arriving back in Delhi about midnight last night!


The trains are always fun and a great way to see India living life right in front of your eyes!


One of the cool things we did one evening was to wonder around in Old Delhi - drinking in the sights, sounds and smells of the most packed out little alleys you can imagine! I was here about 3 years ago for work, and had done the same then with a mission to get some good photos. At one place I stopped and talked to a shop-keeper, Ved, and had taken some great shots of him, and emailed them to him. So...we went back to his shop on Tuesday night and enjoyed saying hello again and watching several women ooh and ahh over buying some very glitzy party Saris. That's me and Ved above!

Nicole's work computer was on it's last legs before we arrived here and whilst in Kerala died. On Tuesday I took a rickshaw to the "computer bazaar" and came home with a new toy for her - enabling her to carry on working (and thus supplying me with the dosh to keep having fun of course!!!). I love trying to understand what life is like for people here and had a great time chatting and joking with Kumar (pictured), the rickshaw driver who took me there. His starting price was 200 Rupees, and I knocked it down to 100, and he further reduced it to 80 Rupees if I would oblige him by visiting a shop along the way. He gets commission in the form of fuel vouchers for customers he can scoop up for the shop! Seeing as I had time I said that I had no intent on buying anything but would play the game! He was like a little child explaining to me how to look interested...stay for a minimum of 7 mins...and then leave. He has been driving rickshaws for 34 years and still was so polite and friendly...despite the huge dirty city he works in. As I drove along I observed all kinds of things along the way: The wide streets of New Delhi with it's manicured gardens, a beggar with trousers pulled down and diarrhea pouring down his backside & legs, flashy cars, 9 kids being picked up from school in one cycle rickshaw. It really is such a mix of poverty and power, the best and worst of humanity all living side by side. I could not help but be reminded of what a privileged position I have in the world...to be able to go home and shower that night and wash the days grime away, to sleep in a bed with a full belly, to have choice. Perhaps Delhi to me is delightful as I am a king here? Lots to think about!

We take the 17 hour train to Kolkata this afternoon and we are both looking forward to being there and getting to know a new city and new people...and introducing them to you too!
Til then
Marty & Nicole

PS A little more on Kerala...if ever you come to India make sure this is one of the states you viist!
Since our first India blog we moved on to Cochin for several days and also to Vypeen Island (Cherai Beach).We attended an ear-splitting Kathakali Dance one evening - including watching the one hour it took to apply the make up!




We also spent an evening in Allepy where we went out for a few hours on the "Backwaters" - a 900km series of canals that serves as one of the main transport routes for the region. Luckily we were there in the off season as there are literally hundreds of house-boats plying these waters usually.






Towards the end of our stay in Varkala we also took a quick Indian cooking lesson...making samosa, dosa, butter chicken masala, biryani and a pineapple desert..best bit was getting to eat it at the end!

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Incredible India...इन्क्रेदिब्ले इंडिया

Hello from Varkala Beach, Kerala...


We have been perched atop the cliffs here for a week now and our most difficult decisions each day are where to eat next and when to swim again!

Leaving Afghanistan was a little sad and yet the right time to go...and now we are ready for new adventures ahead. After Easter we will be in Kolkata where I will volunteer with a business called Freeset until the end of June. Nicole remains working for Tearfund UK remotely for now. Beyond June we have no idea...but that is what we hope to discover in the next few months.

Being back in India is great। I have been here 7-8 times and for Nicole this is her first। We had a night in Kolkata when we arrived then came to Kerala. Varkala was the place I rested up in 12 years ago after leading a short term team for a month, and before making my first journey to Afghanistan. It seems quite fitting to have returned here to rest up again after our time in Afghanistan. Varkala has changed significantly...the cliffs are now hyper-populated with restaurants, souvenir shops, and tailors making the type of hippy clothes tourists love to wear, and locals laugh at! Despite the changes there is still a nice relaxed beach feel to the place & nobody is too bothered by anything or anyone. Wrist watches are not needed!




Last night we had a Keralan dinner on banana leaves sitting on the roof of the guest-house we are staying in ($6USD/night!)... invited by the owner of the house. There were travelers from Sweden, Italy, Australia & Canada, plus several locals. One thing we all had in common was a love for journeys and exploring and a refusal to accept the norms of 9-5 work til you die!!


I have enjoyed reading something other than project proposals or reports - I just finished "Super Freakonomics" (Levitt & Dubner) and Nicole has just about finished "Ireland Awakening" (E Rutherford). Both great reads.

We are heading to Allepy & Cochin next with some house-boat on the back-waters thrown in, a little more beach time, then Delhi & the Taj Mahal - and taking the back to Kolkata.We look forward to letting you know our thoughts on life in Kolkata once we get into the groove there।
With much love & peace to ya!
M & N
पास एंड लव तो यू अल

Monday, December 6, 2010

Back in the USA...


This comes a little after the event..but ..Nicole and I were fortunate enough to be in the USA again in Oct/Nov to celebrate a significant birthday and re-connect with many friends made during our cycle through NY State last year, and make a few new friends in the process too.

We had a wonderful time (how can you not in the US of A!!) and enjoyed exploring more of New York City, the freedom of walking on the streets, eating plenty of good (and bad for you) food, meeting up with several friends in New York City for 5 days, renting a car and visiting friends in Pennsylvania & up-state New York for a week. Marty then had the privilege of attending a Franciscan retreat/initiation in Northern California...in a beautiful Redwood Forest, which was fantastic. Ask me more if interested.

Again, we are grateful for the ability to do these things and travel like this.
M & N


Can you ever get enough!!


Nicole getting intimate with her favorite NYC Building- The Chrysler Blg

Oh yeah!!

Happy Marty with his favorite - the Flatirons Building

Up the Rockefeller Centre - 70th Floor with the Girls!!

I dragged them all out of bed at 6 a.m to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge - magic!

Central Park - the George Washington Bridge (top left) was what we cycled in to NYC exactky a year before

Say no more!

Down in the Subway

Out on Lake George - in the Adirondacks - Upstate NY

Looking back to Manhattan from Brooklyn

Mmmmm....

N.Y.P.D on a Breakfast Break at our favorite diner - Westway!

However..this one trumped the lot - Pamelas Diner in Pittsburgh - the best ever breakfast with Bet and Fuzz - my sister Nicky's adopted parents from 1984